Explained: Greenwashing.
What is Greenwashing in the fashion industry?
I am so delighted that more and more people are taking an active interest in sustainability and learning about the impact our clothes have on the environment and the communities making our clothes. This has not gone unnoticed by the fashion industry as each brand strives to demonstrate that they are making changes and giving us the sustainable options we desire.
However, marketing is a powerful tool. In 1986, environmentalist Jay Westervelt created the phrase ‘greenwashing’ to describe unsubstantiated claims made by a company designed to mislead consumers into thinking their products are better for the environment than they actually are. Many people may not have a full understanding of what makes an item sustainable and it is very easy to use words such as ‘conscious’, ‘eco’ and ‘organic’ to make the consumer feel that they are making better choices. It is only when you dig a little deeper and ask questions that you may realise the item you’re buying isn’t quite as sustainable as you initially thought.
A good example of this would be a big brand’s conscious range where a very low cost item is marketed as ‘Conscious’ as perhaps it is made from Organic Cotton. Organic cotton is better for the environment as it is made using less chemicals and energy. What the retailer has failed to mention is that the items may have been made in huge quantities (which can create a lot of waste) in a factory many miles away where the workers are not paid a fair wage.
Alternately a product may be marked as ‘Sustainable’ and in large words it may say ‘made using natural fibres’. When you read a little closer you may realise that the natural fibre is mixed with a percentage of Polyamide - a synthetic material that does not biodegrade.
Some companies are therefore promoting and advertising the messages that they want us to hear, but not providing the full picture to allow us to understand if garments are indeed ethical, sustainable or conscious.
Another point to note is that there is a misconception that certain natural or vegan fabrics are better for the environment. Therefore, brands will stress that an item is natural or vegan as it appear better for the environment. Many natural fabrics are, but the truth is that it depends on how the fibres are sourced and what chemicals are used in production. Some natural fabrics that are not sustainably sourced can have a big impact on deforestation.
“Viscose is responsible for deforestation, unless it comes from a certified source.”
With regard to vegan products, many are made using plastic polymers: polyurethane (PU) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) which are derived from fossil fuels, not biodegradable and use large amounts of energy to produce. More sustainable options can be seen made from natural resources such as pineapple, leaves, cork or recycled plastic.
How can we identify Greenwashing?
Here are a few things you can do …………
Increase your knowledge.
I have said it before and I will say it again - the more you understand about the clothes you wear and how they are produced, the better the decisions you can make when purchasing new garments. Knowing what truly makes a garment better for the environment and those along the supply chain will help you to spot claims made from brands that are not entirely accurate. There are many elements that will make a garment truly ethical and sustainable, not just one. Following accounts such as mine - @accentuate_preloved - on instagram that provide snippets of easy to digest information is a good place to start to help enhance your knowledge.
Research the brand
If a brand is making a claim regarding sustainability, visit their website for further information on how the business as a whole is moving towards a more sustainable model. A company that is truly trying to force change will provide full and thorough information on their website backed up by measurable commitments. It is also worth noting that fast fashion brands producing garments in very large quantities are unlikely to be able to operate a fully sustainable model for many reasons, including the fact that producing in such large quantities also leads to a large volume of waste during production and when items are not sold. So, even if a small percentage of items within a fast fashion brand are labelled ‘conscious’ it will worth questioning the quantities these are produced in and considering what happens when a line is not popular and thousands of items remain unsold.
Get to know the buzz words
Brands will use buzz words in marketing campaigns and on product labels to mislead consumers into thinking they are making better choices. Words such as ‘eco-friendly’, ‘sustainable’, ‘conscious’, ‘environmentally friendly’ sound great, but without evidence to back them up they mean nothing and are not regulated. Therefore, rather than relying on the wording on a garment or line - look out for figures, measurable targets and justification for the titles. For example, if a garment is made using ‘recycled materials’ - check the percentage of the garment that is in fact made of recycled materials. If just 5% of the content is recycled to allow them to note it on the label, would you consider that garment ‘eco-friendly’?
Familiarise yourself with sustainable / ethical certifications
There are a wide range of certifications that will help you understand how a garment has been produced. Being aware of these will help you decipher if a brand is committed to ethical and sustainable practises. An example of a just a few of these certificates are: GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) that indicates that a product is organic and covers all elements of production - ‘The aim of this standard is to define requirements to ensure organic status of textiles, from harvesting of raw materials, through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing up to labelling in order to provide credible assurance to the end customer’. Fair Wear membership shows that a brand is committed to improving the working conditions globally within the fashion industry. A t-shirt noting the ‘Earth Positive’ logo will be 100% organic cotton that has been manufactured using only sustainable energy generated from wind and solar power. The ‘Climate Neutral certified’ emblem is earned by companies that offset and reduce all of their greenhouse gas emissions.
Don’t be afraid to ask questions.
For many years we have shopped blind, without real understanding of how garments are produced. If you are unsure or it is not clear why an items is labelled ‘conscious’, ‘sustainable’ or ‘eco-friendly’ then ask the question. A brand that is committed to supporting sustainable and ethical practises will be happy to answer questions and explain in further detail. I also believe that by asking questions, the brands will realise that more of us really do care about the impact the fashion industry has on the planet and people …… and it will ultimately enforce change :-).